These are the 75 Litre Wormeries, the 100 Litre has an extra tray.
( and it is !)
Although I do start everything off in our Wormcast and Coir which Andrew and Diane's worms produce for us, I would be totally lost without a regular supply of fresh compost .
We got to thinking though as to whether we could ease off the 'turning', as well as tidying up the process a little.
My 'pile it all in' compost heaps do tend to sprawl a bit, and I'm always worried about some very unwelcome visitors.
Little things with whiskas and long, long tails
Separate all that kitchen waste from all that garden stuff.
And the neatest way of getting rid of all of that kitchen waste, is just to get a wormery.
So I did.
We looked around a lot first mind, "Don't rush into things" Joe said ( he's so exciting to live with ) and eventually we settled on the 'Wormcity Wormery' that Ronnie and Geoff Burn designed, and now produce, down in Dorset.
Why Ronnie and Geoff's 'Wormcity' ?
Well lots of reasons really.
The Wormcity Wormery is really tough, and made from recycled UV protected plastic.
( They're confident enough to give a 5 year guarantee.)
They are designed to rest on the composting stuff below, so that your worms can easily move from tray to tray as the matter reduces into vermicompost.
( Although the 'Wormcity' trays are the largest we found, handles make lifting easy.)
( It also channels the liquid "Leachate" towards the tap - it can hold 9 litres, and you should dilute this by 10 to 1 to make a wonderful fertilizer.)
The Wormery's base is strong and very stable, and the sump is screwed into it for real sturdy stability.
(The instructions are so easy too, Joe did not need any help from Daisy at all.)
Our Wormcity wormery comes with a full kilo of worms - that's up to 2000 of them.
(They are hungry little creatures, but make sure you do not overfeed them, and build up feeding them slowly. It's the only real rule you need !)
(Turning waste back into growing stuff - how nature's natural cycle can you get !)
The pH ( potential Hydrogen ) meter simply tells you how whether your compost is tending to be acidic ( a low pH number), or alkali ( a high pH number.)
A 'nuetral' soil has a pH of around 7, and most plants and veggies will happily grow around this figure.
If you want to increase acidity add some garden sulphur to your wormery, to increase alkaline levels add a bit of lime.
(For example Hydrangeas, Potatoes and Orchids like the soil a bit acidy, Brassicas and Lillies like it to be a bit more a lkaline.)
George Pilkington's book really does tell you how to build up a successful wormery, each easy step is explained, with loads of helpful tips.
('Wormery' is very easy, with very few "don'ts" but a handy guide is, well, handy !)
The " Caddy" is an ideal, tidy place for all those peelings, cabbage stalks and stuff until you add them to your wormery.
It enables you to keep track of what you are feeding them too.
Your kilogram of worms can eat about 500 grams a day, don't feed them more than this until your wormery has been running for a few months, and your worms have multiplied a bit - they don't spend all their time eating !
( I used old tomato trays and the like for kitchen stuff, before emptying it into some old cardboard box outside the kitchen door. When it rained, I cursed dreadfully and then struggled to take the disintegrating box to the current compost heap. Efficient huh !)
Just to sum up, our 'Wormcity Wormery' kits give you everything you need to start a successful wormery.
Including a compressed coir block, and special 'get 'em started' worm food to get the worms and up and chomping from day one.


